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The procedure for brazing is very similar to braze and oxyacetylene welding. The metal needs to be cleaned by either mechanical, chemical, or a combina­tion of both methods to ensure good bonding. The two pieces must befitted properly and supported to prevent voids in the joint or accidental movement during brazing and cooling operations.

Surface Preparation

The surfaces of the metal must be cleaned for cap­illary action to take place. When necessary, chemically clean the surface by dipping it in acid. Remove the acid by washing the surface with warm water. For mechani­cal cleaning, you can use steel wool, a file, or abrasive paper. Do not use an emery wheel or emery cloth,

Figure 6-16.-Brazing a butt joint.

because abrasive particles or oil might become embed­ded in the metal.

Work Support

Mount the work in position on firebricks or other suitable means of support, and if necessary, clamp it. This is important because if the joint moves during the brazing process, the finished bond will be weak and subject to failure.


The method of application varies, depending upon the form of flux being used and the type of metal you are brazing. Refer to the material on fluxes previously described. It is extremely important that the flux is suitable for your job.


The next step is to heat the parts to the correct brazing temperature. Adjust the torch flame (oxygas) to a neutral flame because this flame gives the best results under normal conditions. A reducing flame produces an exceptionally neat-looking joint, but strength is sacri­ficed. An oxidizing flame will produce a strong joint but it has a rough-looking surface.

The best way to determine the temperature of the joint, as you heat it, is by watching the behavior of the flux. The flux first dries out as the moisture (water) boils off at 212°F. Then the flux turns milky in color and starts to bubble at about 600°F. Finally, it turns into a clear liquid at about 1100°F. That is just short of the brazing temperature. The clear appearance of the flux indicates that it is time to start adding the filler metal. The heat of the joint, not the flame, should melt the filler metal. When the temperature and alignment are proper, the filler metal spreads over the metal surface and into the joint by capillary attraction. For good bonding, ensure the filler metal penetrates the complete thickness of the metal. Figure 6-16 shows a good position for the torch and filler metal when brazing a butt joint.

Stop heating as soon as the filler metal has com­pletely covered the surface of the joint, and let the joint cool slowly. Do not remove the supports or clamps or move the joint in any way until the surface is cool and the filler metal has completely solidified.

Finally, clean the joint after it has cooled suffi­ciently. This can be done with hot water. Be sure to remove all traces of the flux because it can corrode the metal. Excess metal left on the joint can be filed smooth.

The above described procedure is a general one, but it applies to the three major types of brazing: silver, copper alloy, and aluminum. The differences being the base metals joined and the composition of the filler metals.

Table 6-2.-Silver Brazing Filler Metal Alloys

Silver Brazing

Often, you will be called on to do a silver brazing job. Table 6-2 lists different types of silver brazing alloys and their characteristics. A popular way to apply silver brazing metal on a tubing is to use silver alloy rings, as shown in figure 6-17. This is a practical and economical way to add silver alloy when using a pro­duction line system. Another method of brazing by using preplaced brazing shims is shown in figure 6-18. The requirements of each job varies; however, through ex­perience you can become capable of selecting the proper procedure to produce quality brazing.

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