Inspection

two central seizings. With the jack the blade against the rope Figure 5-26.—Seizing wire rope. counterclockwise by hand, so the twisted portion of the wires is near the middle of the seizing, as shown in step 2. Grasp the ends with end-cutting nippers and twist up the slack, as shown in step 3. Do not try to tighten the seizing by twisting. Draw up on the seizing, as shown in step 4. Again twist up the slack, using nippers, as shown in step 5. Repeat steps 4 and 5 if necessary. Cut the ends and pound them down on the rope, as shown in step 6. When the seizing is to be permanent or when the rope is 1 5/8 inches or more in diameter, use a serving bar, or iron, to increase tension on the seizing wire when putting on the turns. Wire rope can be cut successfully by a number of methods. One effective and simple method is to use a hydraulic type of wire rope cutter, as shown in figure 5-27. Remember that all wire should be seized before it is cut. For best results in using this method, place the rope in the cutter, so the blade comes between the release valve closed, at the location of the cut and continue to operate the cutter until the wire rope is cut. INSPECTION Wire rope should be inspected at regular internals, the same as fiber line. The frequency of inspection is determined by the use of the rope and the conditions under which it is used. Throughout an inspection, the rope should be examined carefully for fishhooks, kinks, and worn and corroded spots. Usual] y breaks in individual wires will be concentrated in areas where the wire runs continually over the sheaves or bend onto the drum. Abrasion or reverse and sharp bends cause individual wires to break and bend back These breaks are known as fishhooks. When wires are slightly worn but have broken off squarely and stick out all over the rope, that condition is usually caused by overloading or rough handling. If the breaks are confined to one or two 5-13