Base Molding

includes full-width metal subjambs into which the upper and lower sash slide, replacing the parting strip. Stops are located against these instead of the sash to provide a small amount of pressure. The apron is cut to a length equal to the outer width of the casing line (fig. 6-35, view A). It should be nailed to the windowsill and to the 2- by 4-inch framing sill below. When casing is used to finish the bottom of the window frame, as well as the sides and top, the narrow stool butts against the side window jamb. Casing should then be mitered at the bottom comers (fig. 6-35, view B) and nailed as previously described. BASE MOLDING Base molding serves as a finish between the finished wall and floor. It is available in several widths and forms. Two-piece base consists of a baseboard topped with a small base cap (fig. 6-36, view A). When plaster is not straight and true, the small base molding will conform more closely to the variations than will the wider base alone. A common size for this type of baseboard is 5/8 inch by 3 1/4 inches or wider. One-piece base varies in size from 7/16 inch by 2 1/4 inches to 1/2 inch by 3 1/4 inches and wider (fig. 6-36, views B and C). Although a baseboard is desirable at the junction of the wall and carpeting to serve as a protective bumper, wood trim is sometimes eliminated entirely. Figure 6-36.-Base moldings. Most baseboards are finished with a 1/2-by 3/4-inch base shoe (fig. 6-36, view A). A single base molding without the shoe is sometimes placed at the wall-floor junction, especially where carpeting might be used. Square-edged baseboard should be installed with a butt joint at the inside comers and a mitered joint at the outside comers (fig. 6-36, view D). It should be nailed to each stud with two 8d finishing nails. Molded single-piece base, base moldings, and base shoe should have a coped joint at the inside corners and a mitered joint at the outside corners. In a coped joint, the first piece is square-cut against the plaster or base and the second piece of molding coped. This is done by sawing a 45° miter cut and using a coping saw to trim the molding along the inner line of the miter (fig. 6-36, view E). The base shoe should be nailed into the baseboard itself. Then, if there is a small amount of shrinkage of the joists, no opening will occur under the shoe. To butt-join a piece of baseboard to another piece already in place at an inside corner, set the piece to be joined in position on the floor, bring the end against or near the face of the other piece, and take off the line of the face with a scriber (fig. 6-37). Use the same procedure when butting ends of the baseboard against the side casings of the doors. For miter-joining at an outside comer, proceed as shown in figure 6-38. First, set a marker piece of baseboard across the wall comer, as shown view A, and mark the floor along the edge of the piece. Then set the piece to be mitered in place. Mark the point where the wall corner intersects the top edge and the point where Figure 6-37.-Butt-joining baseboard at inside corners. 6-24