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Page Title: Setting Glass in Wood and Metal Sashes
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Builder 3&2 Volume 02 - Construction manual for building structures
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Figure 4-31. Setting Glass with Glazier's Points and Putty

Figure 4-30.-Types of metal-sash glazing. nonporous surface. Figure 4-30 shows examples of the types  of  metal-sash  putty.  Elastic  glazing  compounds may be used in place of putty. These compounds are produced from processed oils and pigments and will remain  plastic  and  resilient  over  a  longer  period  than will putty. A skin quickly forms over the outside of the compound after it is placed, while the interior remains soft. This type of glazing compound is used in windows or doors subject to twisting or vibration. It may be painted as soon as the surface has formed. For large panes of glass, setting blocks may be placed  between  the  glass  edges  and  the  frame  to maintain proper spacing of the glass in the openings. The blocks may be of wood, lead, neoprene, or some flexible material. For large openings, flexible shims must be set between the face of the glass and the glazing channel to allow for movement. Plastics and heat-absorbing or reflective glass require more clearance to allow for greater expansion. The shims may be in the form of a continuous tape of a butyl-rubber-based compound, which has been extruded into soft, tacky, ready-to-use tape that adheres to any clean, dry surface. The tape is applied to the frame and the glass-holding stop before the glass is placed in a frame. Under compression, the tape also serves as a sealant. Glass may be held in place in the frame by spring clips  inserted  in  holes  in  the  metal  frame  or  by continuous angles or stops attached to the frame with screws or snap-on spring clips. The frames of metal windows are shaped either for outside or inside glazing. SETTING GLASS IN WOOD AND METAL SASHES Do not glaze or reglaze exterior sash when the temperature   is   40°F   or   lower   unless   absolutely necessary.  Sash  and  door  members  must  be  thoroughly cleaned  of  dust  with  a  brush  or  cloth  dampened  with turpentine   or   mineral   spirits.   Lay   a   continuous 1/6-inch-thick bed of putty or compound in the putty run (fig.   4-31).   The   glazed   face   of   the   sash   can   be recognized as the size on which the glass was cut. If the glass has a bowed surface, it should be set with the concave side in. Wire glass is set with the twist vertical. Press the glass firmly into place so that the bed putty will fill all irregularities. When glazing wood sash, insert two glazier’s points per side for small lights and about 8 inches apart on all sides for large lights. When glazing metal sash, use wire clips  or  metal  glazing  beads. After the glass has been bedded, lay a continuous bead of putty against the perimeter of the glass-face putty run. Press the putty with a putty knife or glazing tool with sufficient pressure to ensure its complete adhesion to the glass and sash. Finish with full, smooth, accurately formed bevels with clean-cut miters. Trim up 4-26

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