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Back Form Design | Up Builder 3&2 Volume 01 - Construction manual for building structures | Next Columns |
placing. By knowing these two factors and the type
of form material to be used, you can calculate a
tentative design.
FORM CONSTRUCTION
Strictly speaking, it is only those parts of the
form work that directly mold the concrete that are
correctly referred to as the forms. The rest of the
formwork consists of various bracing and tying
members. In the following discussion on forms,
illustrations are provided to help you understand the
names of all the formwork members. You should
study these illustrations carefully so that you will
understand the material in the next section.
Foundation Forms
The portion of a structure that extends above the
ground level is called the superstructure. The portion
below the ground level is called the substructure. The
parts of the substructure that distribute building loads
to the ground are called foundations. Footings are
installed at the base of foundations to spread the loads
over a larger ground area. This prevents the structure
from sinking into the ground. Its important to
remember that the footings of any foundation system
should always be placed below the frost line. Forms
for large footings, such as bearing wall footings,
column footings, and pier footings, are called
foundation forms. Footings, or foundations, are
relatively low in height since their primary function is
to distribute building loads. Because the concrete
in a footing is shallow, pressure on the form is
relatively low. Therefore, a form design based on
high strength and rigidity considerations is generally
not necessary.
SIMPLE FOUNDATION. Whenever possible,
excavate the earth and use it as a mold for concrete
footings. You should thoroughly moisten the earth
before placing the concrete. If this is not possible,
you must construct a form. Because most footings are
rectangular or square, you can build and erect the four
sides of the form in panels.
Make the first pair of opposing panels (figure 7-1
(a)) to exact footing width. Then, nail vertical cleats
to the exterior sides of the sheathing. Use at least
Figure 7-1.-Typical foundation form for a large footing.
1-by-2-inch lumber for the cleats, and space them
2 1/2 inches from each end of the exterior sides of the
panels (a), and on 2-foot centers between the ends.
Next, nail two cleats to the ends of the interior sides of
the second pair of panels (figure 7-1 (b)). The space
between these panels should equal the footing length
plus twice the sheathing thickness. Then, nail cleats
on the exterior sides of the panels (b) spaced on 2-foot
centers.
Erect the panels into either a rectangle or square,
and hold them in place with form nails. Make sure
that all reinforcing bars are in place. Now, drill small
holes on each side of the center cleat on each panel.
These holes should be less than 1/2 inch in diameter to
prevent paste leakage.
Pass No. 8 or No. 9 black
annealed iron wire through these holes and wrap it
around the center cleats of the opposing panels to hold
them together (see figure 7-1). Mark the top of the
footing on the interior side of the panels with grade
nails.
For forms 4 feet square or larger, drive stakes
against the sheathing, as shown in figure 7-1. Both
the stakes and the 1 by 6 tie braces nailed across the
top of the form keep it from spreading apart. If a
footing is less than l-foot deep and 2-feet square, you
can construct the form from 1-inch sheathing without
cleats. Simply make the side panels higher than the
footing depth, and mark the top of the footing on the
interior sides of the panels with grade nails. Cut and
7-3
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