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Form Design
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Builder 3&2 Volume 01 - Construction manual for building structures
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placing. By knowing these two factors and the type of  form  material  to  be  used,  you  can  calculate  a tentative  design. FORM  CONSTRUCTION Strictly  speaking,  it  is  only  those  parts  of  the form  work  that  directly  mold  the  concrete  that  are correctly referred to as the “forms.” The rest of the formwork  consists  of  various  bracing  and  tying members.   In   the   following   discussion   on   forms, illustrations  are  provided  to  help  you  understand  the names  of  all  the  formwork  members.  You  should study  these  illustrations  carefully  so  that  you  will understand the material in the next section. Foundation Forms The  portion  of  a  structure  that  extends  above  the ground  level  is  called  the  superstructure.  The  portion below  the  ground  level  is  called  the  substructure.  The parts of the substructure that distribute building loads to  the  ground  are  called  foundations.  Footings  are installed at the base of foundations to spread the loads over a larger ground area. This prevents the structure from   sinking   into   the   ground.   It’s   important   to remember  that  the  footings  of  any  foundation  system should always be placed below the frost line. Forms for  large  footings,  such  as  bearing  wall  footings, column   footings,   and   pier   footings,   are   called foundation  forms.  Footings,  or  foundations,  are relatively low in height since their primary function is to  distribute  building  loads.  Because  the  concrete in  a  footing  is  shallow,  pressure  on  the  form  is relatively  low.  Therefore,  a  form  design  based  on high  strength  and  rigidity  considerations  is  generally not  necessary. SIMPLE FOUNDATION.—  Whenever   possible, excavate the earth and use it as a mold for concrete footings.  You  should  thoroughly  moisten  the  earth before  placing  the  concrete.  If  this  is  not  possible, you  must  construct  a  form.  Because  most  footings  are rectangular or square, you can build and erect the four sides of the form in panels. Make  the  first  pair  of  opposing  panels  (figure  7-1 (a)) to exact footing width. Then, nail vertical cleats to  the  exterior  sides  of  the  sheathing.  Use  at  least Figure 7-1.-Typical foundation form for a large footing. 1-by-2-inch  lumber  for  the  cleats,  and  space  them 2 1/2 inches from each end of the exterior sides of the panels (a), and on 2-foot centers between the ends. Next, nail two cleats to the ends of the interior sides of the second pair of panels (figure 7-1 (b)). The space between  these  panels  should  equal  the  footing  length plus twice the sheathing thickness. Then, nail cleats on the exterior sides of the panels (b) spaced on 2-foot centers. Erect the panels into either a rectangle or square, and hold them in place with form nails. Make sure that all reinforcing bars are in place. Now, drill small holes on each side of the center cleat on each panel. These holes should be less than 1/2 inch in diameter to prevent paste leakage. Pass  No.  8  or  No.  9  black annealed iron wire through these holes and wrap it around the center cleats of the opposing panels to hold them together (see figure 7-1). Mark the top of the footing on the interior side of the panels with grade nails. For  forms  4  feet  square  or  larger,  drive  stakes against the sheathing, as shown in figure 7-1. Both the stakes and the 1 by 6 tie braces nailed across the top  of  the  form  keep  it  from  spreading  apart.  If  a footing is less than l-foot deep and 2-feet square, you can  construct  the  form  from  1-inch  sheathing  without cleats. Simply make the side panels higher than the footing depth, and mark the top of the footing on the interior sides of the panels with grade nails. Cut and 7-3

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