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Back Box Mounting Between Framing | Up Construction Electrician Basic - Electricity handbook for electricians | Next Box Mounting Height and Location |
two typical bar hangers and two metal strap supports.
You can see that one of the bar hangers includes a fixture
stud that also serves to support the box when it is
installed through the knockout in the box bottom. The
other bar hanger supports the box by means of a clamp
installed through the bottom knockout. Bar hangers
with boxes already attached are available. Bar hangers
come in different lengths with each having a range of
adjustment to fit spaces of varying widths. Bar hangers
are fastened in place by nails driven into the side of the
joist or stud. Sheet metal screws or machine bolts and
nuts are substituted for nails when metal framing is
involved. Metal straps may have fixture studs or may
have slotted mounting holes so the box may be attached
with machine bolts and nuts. Strap supports come in
different lengths with several nail holes in each end to fit
various width spaces. Strap supports are nailed to the
face of the joist or stud They have different offsets to fit
different box depths or installation needs.
Metal strap supports can be made similar to the
manufactured one shown in the lower part of figure
5-15. Hole locations should be determined and holes
drilled as needed for the specific installation being
made. Wood supports can be made in a number of ways.
About the simplest form is shown in figure 5-16. It
consists of a piece of 1- by 4-inch lumber cut to length to
fit between the joists and nailed in place. You need to
allow for the depth of the box plus the thickness of the
ceiling material when positioning the board for nailing.
In some cases, two 1 by 4s may be nailed up with the
wide dimension perpendicular to the joist or stud faces
and the box mounted between them. Sometimes the
ends of the 1- by 4- by 4-inch support is nailed to 1- by 4-
by 4-inch blocks which, in turn, are nailed to the joists.
Box Mounting in Existing Structures
A completely different method of box mounting is
required when a concealed extension is to be made to an
existing circuit or when a new concealed circuit is to be
added in an existing structure. The procedures
discussed here pertain to mounting boxes in hollow
walls; that is, walls, such as sheetrock or plaster on
studs. Boxes must be equipped with plaster ears to
assist in anchoring them in place. One method of
hollow wall mounting is shown in figure 5-17. This
method uses two sheet metal brackets to hold the box in
place. The first step for this type of mounting is to locate
and cut the mounting hole. After the hole is cut, hold the
box in place in the hole with the plaster ears against the
wall. Slip a bracket with the fins pointing out, long end
first, between the box and the wall. Slide the bracket up
until the short end clears the hole. Rush the short end
into the hole and slide the bracket downward to center
the fins with the box. Bend the fins tightly over the box
edge and down against the inside. Repeat these steps for
the second bracket. The box should now be held firmly
in place.
A second method of mounting a box in a hollow
wall makes use of clamping devices attached to the box
sides, as shown in figure 5-18. These boxes usually
come with a stiff paper template to outline the hole that
must be cut into the wall. If you do not have a template,
put the box against the wall and draw around it. Be sure
you do not include the plaster ears in your drawing. Cut
the hole as indicated, Slip the box into the hole and
tighten the clamping screws until the box is firmly
anchored. One variation of this method works quite
Figure 5-16.Woodbox support
Figure 5-17.Bracket support of box in hollow wall.
5-10
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