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Page Title: Advantages and Characteristics of a Machine-Sewn Seam
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Use of the Hand-sewn Hidden Stitch and the Needle Used
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Uses of Varying Classes of Machine-sewn Seams and Stitchings

Figure  10-31.—Hidden  stitch. 239.380 In this section, we discuss techniques concerning machine-sewn seams. While there is generally no option  in  choosing  a  hand-sewn  seam,  there  are many  options  in  choosing  a  machine  seam. Advantages and Characteristics of a Machine-Sewn Seam Machine   seams   or   stitchings   have   the following advantages over hand-sewn seams: (1) speed,  (2)  appearance,  and  (3)  uniformity  of tension.  Their  desirable  characteristics  are  as follows: STRENGTH. Strength of a seam of stitching depends  on  the  type  of  thread,  stitch  type,  number of  stitches  per  inch,  the  construction  and  tightness of the seam, and the size and type of needle point used. The strength of the seam should equal that of  the  material  it  joins.  Use  only  the  material specified  for  the  assembly  in  the  applicable technical  order. ELASTICITY   AND   FLEXIBILITY.   Elas- ticity  and  flexibility  depend  on  the  stretching qualities  of  the  material  used,  the  quality  and tension of the thread, the length of the stitch, and type  of  seam  or  stitch  used. DURABILITY.  Durability  is  determined  by the wearing qualities of the material, the quality of  the  thread  used,  and  proper  tension  to  set stitches  well  into  the  material  to  reduce  abrasions. Relationship  between  the  elasticity  of  the  seam and the elasticity of the material is very important in  determining  durability. SECURITY.  The  security  of  a  seam  or stitching  depends  chiefly  on  the  stitch  type  and its ability to resist unraveling. The stitch must be well set in the material to prevent snagging, which can cause thread breakage and unravel some types of  stitches.  Seam  “run  offs”  weaken  a  seam.  All seam  ends  should  be  backstitched  or  anchored (backstitched  and  overstitched)  to  prevent  the seams  from  unraveling,  as  illustrated  in  figure 10-32. APPEARANCE.   The  appearance  of  a  seam is  controlled  by  its  construction  and  neatness  of workmanship;   however,   appearance   is   of   less importance than any of the four factors explained previously—strength,  elasticity,  durability,  and security.  Size  and  type  of  thread  and  length  of stitch  may  also  affect  appearance. Meanings and Symbols of Machine-Sewn Basic Stitches Meanings and symbols of basic machine-sewn stitches  are  discussed  in  the  following  paragraphs. Figure 10-32.—Properly anchored machine seam. 10-25

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